![]() ![]() “Fresh frying fat makes all the difference,” Julia wrote when she had tasted it. Kan’s selections began with barbecued spareribs, served as an hors d’oeuvre, and progressed to fried squid. Kan seemed to think it impolite to reply orally to a written message. Bishop explained that this wasn’t really necessary, since Julia could hear perfectly well, but Mrs. Kan took the pad and pen and wrote out her reply. She was not supposed to use her voice, and she was communicating with facial expressions, gestures, and notes written with a felt-tip pen on a white pad. At a cocktail party following one of the demonstrations, she had swallowed an hors d’oeuvre that contained a very hot pepper, and a doctor she consulted seemed to think this might have been the cause of it. ![]() She had lost her voice two days before, in Seattle, where she had given a series of four cooking demonstrations for the benefit of St. “Julia would like it if you ordered for all of us,” Mrs. At length, the Child party was seated at a large table near the center of a big, elegant second-floor room that overlooks the city’s Chinese quarter. Kan was deeply honored by the presence in her restaurant of Julia Child, whose television show, “The French Chef,” is well known in San Francisco, but also deeply distressed, for she had not expected the visit. Kan, the proprietor, hastening to the scene, exchanged ceremonious greetings with Paul and Julia Child and was introduced to Rosemary Manell and Elizabeth Bishop, who would be assisting Julia throughout the next week in a series of cooking demonstrations for the benefit of the Presbyterian Hospital in San Francisco. Chinese waiters flew about in response to his urgent commands. One table was too small, another too far from the windows. The headwaiter at Kan’s could not decide immediately where to seat the Child party.
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